Providing refuge and a sense of community through hummus

In a quiet corner of Rome, where ancient history and modern life collide, a small yet impactful initiative is quietly making waves offering a taste of Syria’s rich culinary heritage while empowering displaced Syrians to rebuild their lives.

The story of HummusTown begins with its founder, Shaza Saker, a Syrian entrepreneur who was born in Damascus but spent most of her life in Rome. For a long time, the Syrian war seemed distant – until it became personal. As the devastation reached her through cousins, aunts and friends who remained in Syria, their stories of hardship and displacement awakened a deep sense of responsibility within Shaza.

“Each day more and more, I felt a strong urge to create something, anything, that could provide a sense of community and support,” she recalls. One turning point was discovering her housekeeper, Joumana Farhoo, in tears one night, fearing she might never return to Syria. This moment compelled Shazia to do something tangible to help.

Her longing for home, coupled with a desire to preserve and share the comforting flavours of her childhood, became the driving force behind HummusTown. What started as a small project out of her home, quickly grew. Shaza reflects on this growth with a mixture of humility and determination. “It started at my home – people gathered, and we cooked together. It was a way to connect with each other, to share memories of home, and to find some comfort in the chaos.”

At that time, Shaza didn’t have grand business aspirations. Her primary focus was survival – emotionally, culturally and financially. “I never thought it would grow this big. But before we knew it, from just word of mouth, 30 to 50 people would come to eat and share them with others who missed those familiar tastes. It brought people together,” she says.

The transition from her home kitchen to a full-fledged business wasn’t easy. While the concept of HummusTown was taking shape, so were the logistical challenges that come with launching any venture – especially for someone in Shaza’s position. “It was so comforting to be at home, cooking with my friends and family. But I knew that if I wanted to make a real difference, it had to be bigger,” she explains. “The demand was growing, and I realised we needed a proper space, but the thought of scaling up was terrifying.”

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One of the most daunting aspects of this transition was navigating the bureaucracy. Shaza faced numerous hurdles in securing the necessary permits and funding to establish her business. “There were days where I thought I couldn’t do it,” she confides. “You’re already starting from zero, and then there are these barriers. You’re not just trying to build a business; you’re fighting against stereotypes, red tape, and your own fear.”

She even struggled to make people understand the weight of their responsibility. “Even the people you’re trying to help anger you because they take it for granted. They don’t pay attention to details which either make it or break it.”

Shaza’s frustration is understandable, but so is her unyielding belief in the mission of HummusTown. The restaurant is not just a business for her; it’s a project of survival for those who work there – many of whom are refugees trying to support their families back home. “This is a project which helps everyone, all my fellow refugee colleagues and their mum and dad who they’re sending the money to. It’s a heavy responsibility.,” she says.

At the heart of HummusTown is the food, an eclectic mix of Syrian, Palestinian and Italian influences, which tells the story of its people. “We called it HummusTown because hummus is known in all languages,” she laughs, recalling the decision to make the Levantine staple a focal point of the menu. But behind the scenes, the kitchen is a place of shared learning. “We have a lady from Aleppo, a lady from Damascus, a lady from Hama and the Palestinian girl. So they all do hummus but they all do it differently.”

What’s special about HummusTown is the authenticity of its food. Shaza is committed to making sure that every dish carries the weight of the culture it comes from. “Whatever food you’re going to eat at HummusTown, you have to know one thing—it’s being cooked by mothers, it’s authentic as it gets. And this is why when people tell us, ‘Oh, but you guys are expensive.’ No! We’re not expensive. If you want to eat authentic food, you’re going to pay that premium because the tahini I use is not the tahini you’ll buy at the store.”

Nevertheless, with rising operating costs and an ever-growing demand for help, Shaza has faced moments of doubt. “In this past week so much has happened. Problems, issues, costs which I wasn’t expecting. But I have the right support to keep me sane. I sleep because I have a clean conscience. At the end of the day, I put my head on the pillow, and I say, ‘Shaza, you can’t do anything right now, just sleep, recharge, because tomorrow morning you’ll be better.’”

Despite the difficulties, Shaza continues to push forward because of the people whose lives HummusTown touches. From refugees finding their footing to the emotional connection that food brings to their lives, the impact is undeniable.

She says, “The stories that come to mind, the people’s faces… whether it’s Joumana’s face, or the young boy who two days ago sent a photo of a dish to his mum saying, ‘Mum, I used your recipe and sold it to a client.’ His face was like, ‘My mum is so proud of me.’ These are the stories that keep you going.”

Even as the restaurant expands, Shaza never loses sight of its roots. The money it makes doesn’t just pay the salaries, it goes back to support those in need. “On a good month, HummusTown cooks for the homeless in Rome. We prepare dishes and distribute meals. It’s like our way of charity, you know, we like to give back,” she explains.

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And when times are really good, HummusTown’s generosity extends to Syria, where Shaza’s father built a clinic in a small village. “Every time we have a bit of money, we send it back. We buy machinery, we buy medicines. When I went there in 2023 after the earthquake, we raised around €40,000 ($44,350). We carried the money in ourselves and distributed it through the clinic, the hub where the medicines were.”

When asked what drives her to keep going, especially when her own childhood was so different from the harsh realities of war, Shaza becomes emotional. “I believe what is happening is unfair. We are living in a sick world… and I told my kids this: do not wait for policymakers, for governments to represent you. You, as a human being, have to do what is right, and if I’m going to help only one person, then be it. I will help just that one person.”

Shaza’s journey exemplifies the impact one person’s commitment to make a difference, even when the world seems indifferent. At HummusTown, every dish tells a story – one of resilience, of hope, and of a community that refuses to be forgotten.