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Andrés Torres, Basque Culinary World Prize 2024 winner: ‘Children, our future, are dying of starvation’

July 27, 2024 at 2:03 pm

Andrés Torres visiting Afghanistan refugees in Pakistan. [Global Humanitaria]

Chef Andrés Torres defies conventional career paths, transforming from a war correspondent into a culinary activist. As the head of Global Humanitaria, Torres has seamlessly blended his passion with a deep-seated commitment to make a tangible impact in conflict zones through the universal language of food.

From the war-torn streets of Syria to the beleaguered neighbourhoods of Ukraine, Chef Torres has witnessed unimaginable human suffering. Yet, instead of merely documenting these horrors, the Spanish chef has chosen to roll up his sleeves and get involved.

“I have been reporting since the age of 16 as a war correspondent but I’ve always felt the need to do more than just covering the devastation of the conflicts on the radio or TV,” he shares. “I wanted to also contribute towards their relief and that’s the reason I started the NGO Global Humanitaria. It’s allowed me to be more active within these affected areas.”

Andrés Torres [Global Humanitaria]

Andrés Torres [Global Humanitaria]

Transitioning from journalism to culinary arts might seem unusual, but for Torres, it was a natural progression. His love of cooking was a constant throughout his life, and he recognised the power of food as a means to bring people together and foster dialogue.

“On a dining table, you can talk about many topics,” Torres explains. “I wanted to use these moments to share conversations about solidarity, humanitarian rights, and how we can help.” His restaurant in Barcelona, Casa Nova, is not just a place to eat but where customers are invited to engage in meaningful discussions about the world.

Casa Nova, which has earned a Michelin Green Star for its sustainable practices, uses its profits to fund Global Humanitaria across ten countries, including Ukraine, Colombia and Syria. The sustainable methods used at Casa Nova are inspired by the communities he encountered during his travels.

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“I’ve seen how resourceful people can be even in the most dire situations,” Torres notes. “These experiences have deeply influenced how we operate at Casa Nova, from sourcing ingredients to minimising waste.” By integrating these practices, Torres not only supports his humanitarian work but also educates his patrons on the importance of sustainability and global responsibility.

“Our customers leave with more than just a full stomach – they leave with a life experience,” Torres notes.

One of Torres’s most notable efforts is in Syria, where he has made several trips, cooking for children affected by the war. His efforts include setting up school canteens to ensure that children receive regular meals, thus encouraging parents to send them to school rather than into early labour.

His approach combines immediate relief with long-term solutions, teaching communities to utilise local resources to sustain themselves. While he aims to integrate Syria into the regular canteen system active in other countries, Andrés pointed out that, although they feed children in Syrian schools as often as possible, the country has only recently received the necessary permit. Torres’s approach combines immediate relief with long-term solutions by teaching communities to utilise local resources for sustainable support.

“I like to spend time with them and live like them while I’m there to really understand their struggles and how they cope with life during war. It is deeply personal,” he says.

According to The World Food Programme, the number of people suffering from hunger since 2011 has gradually begun to rise. Syria has become one of the six countries with the world’s lowest levels of food security. The number of people suffering food insecurity has reached 12.1 million (more than half the population), and 2.9 million suffer severe food insecurity.

Another impactful project is in Jordan, where Global Humanitaria works with Syrian refugee children. Apart from providing food, they offer education and art therapy, using creative expression as a way to heal. Torres recalls how the children’s drawings were sold in Spain to raise funds for the project, creating a cycle of support and empowerment.

Acutely aware of the critical role that food plays in promoting resilience and well-being among war victims, he states: “Food is a basic human right, and in places of war, the children – our future – are dying of starvation.”

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This awareness also led him to Gaza in November, where he made a significant effort to reach Rafah. Despite facing a closed border, he managed to coordinate the delivery of essential supplies by placing them in trucks waiting at the checkpoint, aiming to provide immediate relief to those in need. Torres added that, although he cannot yet disclose specific details, he has been actively exploring various ways to assist.

Despite his tireless efforts, Torres is deeply frustrated by the ignorance of the international community regarding the impact of starvation in war zones. He believes that the media fails to adequately cover these issues, often overlooking the dire situations he witnessed firsthand. This lack of awareness fuels his anger but also drives him to find new ways to bring attention to these crises.

“It makes me very angry that people still remain ignorant of the harsh consequences of starvation and malnutrition. Especially here in this part of the world, in Europe, where we eat every hour of the day. And I think journalists and the media need to do a much better job of going on the ground and informing people of the details of how starvation destroys every part of the body, and what it does to the children.”

Torres argues that journalists often don’t reach the areas most affected by conflict, leading to a gap in understanding and empathy among the global audience. He emphasises the importance of firsthand experience, asserting that to truly comprehend the suffering caused by war, one must live it alongside those affected. This belief shapes his approach to both his culinary and humanitarian work.

Torres flew to Damascus last week after obtaining a permit from the Syrian government to cook for 500 children, many wounded or orphaned by the war. It comes after the Spanish chef was announced the ninth winner of the Basque Culinary World Prize, a €100,000 award that recognises chefs who use their knowledge and influence to go “beyond the kitchen” and create positive changes needed in our society. Notable past winners include Chef Jose Andrés, the founder of World Central Kitchen, and Ebru Baybara Demir, a Turkish humanitarian chef.

Chef Andrés Torres embodies the essence of what it means to be a humanitarian. His unique blend of journalism, culinary expertise and activism demonstrates that when passion meets purpose, the impact is powerful.

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