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Bridging cultures and people: a taste of Nepal in Istanbul

September 28, 2023 at 3:56 pm

A view of food, which is belong to Nepali’s cuisine is seen as serving to customer at Nepali restaurant in Taksim district of Istanbul, Turkiye on September 12, 2023. [Elif Öztürk Özgöncü – Anadolu Agency]

It is a city called home by millions from all corners of the world. It is a city synonymous with diversity, a veritable melting pot of cultures – that is Istanbul for you, Anadolu Agency reports.

With this comes a vibrant culinary world like no other, where one can embark on a gastronomic journey beyond any borders ever made by man – a city that is virtually the world’s table.

Navigating this mosaic of tastes, it is not uncommon for one to stumble into the warm embrace of an unexpected world of flavour – like a charming Nepali restaurant tucked away near the city’s beating heart, Taksim Square.

Among its wide variety, on offer here are chicken chili momo, a traditional Nepali stir-fry with sweet and sour flavours; the hearty “gobi,” or cauliflower, manchurian; or “daal fry,” curried lentils that are a favourite throughout the wider region.

But it is much more than the food that draws people to us, said Rajan Yonjon, the cheerful owner.

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“I’m from the north-eastern part of Nepal,” Yonjon, a 45-year-old native of Dharan, a city in Nepal, told Anadolu as he shared his journey from government employee to beloved restaurateur.

He came to Istanbul as a student in 2010, but the city’s beauty and the warmth of people he met made him want to stay.

“I went back but I returned again… Turkiye is very beautiful. Turkish people are very helpful. “And Turkiye and Nepal, we share almost the same climate,” he said.

Rajan Yonjon, a 45-year-old native of Dharan, a city in Nepal, as he shared his journey from government employee to beloved restaurateur, owner of a Nepali restaurant is seen at his restaurant in Taksim district of Istanbul, Turkiye on September 12, 2023. [Elif Öztürk Özgöncü - Anadolu Agency]

Rajan Yonjon, a 45-year-old native of Dharan, a city in Nepal, as he shared his journey from government employee to beloved restaurateur, owner of a Nepali restaurant is seen at his restaurant in Taksim district of Istanbul, Turkiye on September 12, 2023. [Elif Öztürk Özgöncü – Anadolu Agency]

“I came here and decided to stay here, then of course I had to do something.”

Nepali cuisine, Yonjon explained, has evolved over centuries, influenced by others, but set apart by its own particular blend of herbs and spices.

“Nepali cuisine was truly unique throughout history. It’s influenced by Indian and Tibetan food, but we have developed our own food culture, keeping those influences,” he said.

“Nepali and Indian food are almost similar, maybe 80 per cent, but Indian food is rich in spices. Ours has more herbs. That is the difference.”

There are similarities in Turkish and Nepali cuisines, too, he said, but the difference lies in “spice, herbs and the way of preparation.”

A melting pot

With his diverse customer base, Yonjon’s restaurant is a microcosm of life in Istanbul.

“Some 30 per cent of my customers are locals from Turkiye, some 20 per cent Indians … and the rest from Nepal, Australia, Canada, US, from everywhere,” he said.

A lot of that popularity has to do with how he and his staff treat the customers.

“When they step inside, I’m there to reassure them that they are at the right place. “I tell them whatever they pick from the menu, they will be happy,” he said.

“And when they have the first bite, I can see the happiness, the joy that my food gives them.”

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There is something else that Yonjon is particularly proud of: the fact that around 20 or more of his Turkish customers have been so enamoured by the food that they actually travelled to Nepal.

“This restaurant is where people from different countries, different religions, different societies and languages ​​come together and become friends,” he said, with a beaming smile.

A view of food, which is belong to Nepali's cuisine is seen as serving to customer at Nepali restaurant in Taksim district of Istanbul, Turkiye on September 12, 2023. [Elif Öztürk Özgöncü - Anadolu Agency]

A view of food, which is belong to Nepali’s cuisine is seen as serving to customer at Nepali restaurant in Taksim district of Istanbul, Turkiye on September 12, 2023. [Elif Öztürk Özgöncü – Anadolu Agency]

This is a place that is bridging gaps between people and cultures, he added.

Home away from home

For Nepali expatriates in Istanbul, Yonjon’s restaurant is that little place where they can feel a part of home.

The aroma of their own food offers comfort to those who might be feeling a bit homesick, some solace with the familiarity of flavours from their native land.

“When Nepalis from US or UK come to my restaurant, they feel like this is their home. Like they are in their country and they’re having their mother’s food,” he said.

Though Yonjon humbly rejects the idea of ​​being a cultural ambassador of sorts, he does want his restaurant to be a window to Nepal and its culture.

“I want to show Nepal to the rest of the world. I want them to see and taste Nepali food. “I want to show them that Nepali people are also nice and what Nepali culture is all about,” he said.

“And, of course, I want to be a part of Istanbul.”

In a city where all sorts of cultures are thriving, Yonjon’s restaurant stands as a testament to the idea of ​​food being a universal language, bringing people from all walks of life around a table of shared flavours and stories

It is also a reminder of the power of food and cuisines; how they can be a source of the most coveted of comforts, or serve as the spark that pushes one to take a journey to another corner of the world.

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The views expressed in this article belong to the author and do not necessarily reflect the editorial policy of Middle East Monitor.